Those who have land can apply the following principles for water retention:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
1. observe
Spend at least one year observing the land to experience all seasons, learning and recognizing local conditions:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nClimate<\/li>\n\n\n\n Landscape<\/li>\n\n\n\n Vegetation<\/li>\n\n\n\n Soil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\nQuestions to ask yourself for this purpose include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhat is my average annual rainfall (in mm)? So how many liters of water could I potentially “capture” on my area (with x m2)?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nFor example, if you live in Brandenburg (Germany), with an average rainfall of 500mm\/year (equivalent to 500 liters per square meter per year) and you have an area of 1 hectare (10,000 square meters), your land theoretically has 5,000,000 (5 million) liters of water available. Quite a lot! If only it could be used. More on this below.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhat public data is available on climate, soil, etc.?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhat other water sources (e.g., streams) exist on my land?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhere does my water come from? Where does it go?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhat is the slope on my land?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhere is my land located within the watershed (at the source, next to the oxbow of a river, in the estuary…)?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhat plants grow naturally here and what are their needs in terms of water?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhat culture is common on the land? What techniques (ancient or modern) were used? (e.g. terraces that can protect against erosion).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nWhat do neighbours, parents, grandparents know about traditions and stories related to the land and its water? (e.g., names of towns and bridges often go back to the water situation)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\nA map helps: what is my land like? Where does the water flow and how? (Photo: Anett Shabani)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n2) Start at the top<\/h4>\n\n\n\n Measures to improve water retention should start at the top of the watershed (on the “hill” or slope). From there, you can “work your way down”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
3) Start small and simple<\/h4>\n\n\n\n Creating a huge lake right away is not the point! Instead, even small earthworks can be very effective. Carrying them out, observing their effects and adjusting if necessary is the key to success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
4) Slow, spread and sink<\/h4>\n\n\n\n To prevent water from running away from us unused (drought) or flooding certain places (floods), we can “slow it down.” The goal here is to slow its course, spread it out as much as possible, and let it seep into the ground to raise the water table. There are several techniques for doing this, which are explained below.<\/p>\n\n\n\nResurfacing unpaved driveways helps slow the flow of water during rainstorms and prevent erosion. (Photo: Pierre Michael)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n5) Plan overflow.<\/h4>\n\n\n\n Water finds its way. If a basin or watershed is “full,” it overflows. But you can control where this happens \u2013 by preparing ahead for floods and planning an overflow. The flow of water can be directed in the desired direction \u2013 for example, to other basins where plants gratefully absorb the moisture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
6) Create a living sponge<\/h4>\n\n\n\n In a healthy biotope, the soil functions like a sponge: its top layer of humus absorbs rainwater and releases it into the soil. The texture of the soil determines where the water goes. Compacted soil allows it to run off more quickly. Loosened soil, on the other hand, helps it seep in, which provides water to plant roots and replenishes groundwater tables. Where the soil is too sandy and water seeps too deeply too quickly, soil must be built up. You can do this with plants, their roots, and dead plant parts such as dead leaves, composting into humus. The goal is to help the soil become a living sponge that can absorb as much water as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
7) Stacking functions<\/h4>\n\n\n\n Each measure can achieve more than just “harvesting” water. Especially if it is used to strengthen vegetation. For example, a water basin can be a beautiful sight, nourish a sense of abundance, be a playground for children, and a watering hole for birds and insects.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
8) Feedback loops.<\/h4>\n\n\n\n The land provides feedback: it responds to change. It is important to always monitor and evaluate the system. A special moment is the first rainfall after a change intervention: go out and observe what the water does! Where does it flow, which paths does it seek, where does it collect and accumulate, where does it sink into the ground?<\/p>\n\n\n\n
9) From pattern to detail<\/h4>\n\n\n\n If you take a step back, you will recognize patterns \u2013 in nature, but also in society. Such patterns form the backbone of a landscape design, enriched with more and more details from continuous observations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The principles are described in detail in books such as<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nBrad Lancester: Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond.<\/li>\n\n\n\n Bill Mollison: Permaculture design handbook.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\nTree nursery in Portugal: Planting new vegetation helps retain rainwater. (Photo: Alfonso Zamarro Junquera)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWater retention techniques: How to keep water on your land<\/h3>\n\n\n\n To keep water on one’s land, there are some measures. At the same time, their application ensures that the water cycle is closed, repaired, healed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Those who have buildings and land available should divert as much water as possible from there into storage tanks. These can be located underground or installed as rain barrels. In addition, “gray water” \u2013 i.e. wastewater from showers, sinks and washing machines – can be drained into the surrounding vegetation. The prerequisite for this is the use of biodegradable cosmetics, detergents and cleaning agents.
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